Learn How to Make a Bane Mask

Bane is one of the most intimidating villains in recent superhero movie history. If you want to create your own Bane costume for Halloween or another event, you will need a Bane mask of your very own. Commercially available masks can be pricey, so if you're on a budget, you might be better of making the mask. Here's what you need to do to get the job done.

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Steps

Part One: Creating the Mouthpiece

1. 1
   Find a respirator mask that fits your mouth. A professional respirator mask with filters on the side and a mouthpiece over the front is preferred.
   • Respirator masks can be found at most hardware stores. Make sure that any professional grade mask you buy has removable side filters.
   • If you cannot find a full respirator mask or if your budget does not permit it, you could buy a simple dust mask (also called a particle respirator) instead. These masks do not have mouthpieces or filters and are simple white masks that fit over your mouth. If possible, look for one that comes with a thick strap instead of one that uses elastic string.
   • You could also use a half airsoft mask that only covers your mouth, or a full airsoft mask with the goggle portion removed. These can usually be found at most sports equipment stores and can be a little cheaper, on average, than professional respirator masks are.
2. 2
   Remove any unnecessary pieces. Twist or unscrew the filters on the side of your respirator mask. The mouthpiece of the mask can stay if it is fairly flat, but if it bulges out more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) or so, it should be removed, as well.
   • If using a full airsoft mask, remove the goggle portion and cut away any plastic that sits above the goggle glass. Use a sharp knife or saw to remove this plastic and sand it down with an electric sander to avoid injuring yourself on the sharp edges.
3. 3
   Cut a hole into the mask, if necessary. If using a professional respirator mask or airsoft mask, there should be a hole where the mouthpiece is or was located, so you do not need to cut one. If using a dust mask, however, you will need to cut a small hole with a diameter of 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) directly above the point at which your mouth will be.
   • To get a better idea of where the mouthpiece needs to be, place the dust mask on your face and use a pencil to mark where your mouth is on the mask. Remove the mask and cut the circle out using scissors or a utility knife.
4. 4
   Attach thin tubing above the mouth area. Cut four 3.5-inch (8.89-cm) pieces of 1/2 inch (1.27-cm) tubing. Use hot glue to attach these four pieces at even intervals along the top of the mouthpiece section. The other end of each piece of tubing should be glued down to the top part of the nose piece on your mask.
   • If you do not have a mouthpiece on your mask, put the mask on your face and lightly mark, with pencil, a line where your upper lip is. Arrange the pieces of tubing along this line at even intervals.
   • Thin tubing like this can usually be found in a hardware store.
   • For an easier, cheaper alternative, you could use bendy straws instead of tubing. Cut, bend, and shape the straws before gluing them down.
5. 5
   Attach thin tubing below the mouth area. Cut another four 3.5-inch (8.89-cm) pieces of 1/2 inch (1.27-cm) tubing. Use hot glue to attach these four pieces at even intervals along the bottom of the mouthpiece section. The other end of each piece of tubing should be glued down to the chin portion your mask.
   • If you do not have a mouthpiece on your mask, put the mask on your face and lightly mark, with pencil, a line where your lower lip is. Arrange the pieces of tubing along this line at even intervals.
   • As with before, you could use bendy straws as an alternative to tubing.
6. 6
   Attach thin tubing over the cheeks. Cut two 4.5-inch (11.43-cm) pieces of 1/2 inch (1.27-cm) tubing and two 7.5-inch (19-cm) pieces of 1/2 inch (1.27-cm) tubing.
   • Hot glue the smaller pieces directly next to the end pieces of tubing above the mouth. The lower end of these two new pieces of tubing should be hot glued to the sides of the mouthpiece.
   • If your mask does not have a mouthpiece, then glue the other end to the midpoint in between your top and bottom mouth tubing rows.
   • Hot glue the larger pieces next to the pieces you just glued on at the top end. Glue the bottom end of these final pieces of tubing next to the bottom end of the lower mouth tubing row.
   • As with before, you could use bendy straws as an alternative to tubing.
   • Let everything dry before pressing on with the next part of the project.

Part Two: Adding the Headpiece

1. 1
   Cover the side straps of your mask with pleather. Cut a strip of pleather or other tough black cloth that is twice as wide as the width of your straps and just as long. Use hot glue or fabric glue to cover the straps with this material, hiding the seam or ends of the material on the inside of the strap.
   • If you do not have wide straps on your mask and only have thin elastic cord, go out and buy a band of 2-inch (5-cm) thick black elastic. Cut this piece of elastic to match the length of your elastic cord and glue it to the mask over the cord. Keep the edges of this band on the inside of the mask to hide them.
2. 2
   Measure the top of your head. Use a soft tape measure to measure the distance from the tip of your nose to the base of your skull. Also measure the width of the bridge of your nose at both the top and bottom.
   • For a more accurate fit, place the mouthpiece portion of your mask on before proceeding. Measure from the top of this mouthpiece, over your face and head, and down to the point at which the strap meets in the back of your head.
3. 3
   Cut a piece of flexible foam to match the measurement. Look for black soft foam that is no thicker than 1/2 inch (1.27 cm). Use fabric scissors to cut out a strip of foam that matches the measurement of the top of your head, plus 1 inch (2.5 cm) as a seam or glue allowance.
   • The foam should be as thick as the widest part of your nose.
   • On one end of the foam, make sure that the foam is narrowed out where the upper bridge of your nose would be. If necessary, place the foam over your head temporarily and mark the area you will need to trim down to size.
4. 4
   Cut a matching piece of pleather. Lay your foam over another piece of black pleather and trace the shape onto the other material. Use fabric scissors to cut the shape out of the pleather.
   • If you do not have pleather, choose another durable, tough black fabric.
5. 5
   Attach the pleather to the foam. Apply thin lines of hot glue to the back of the pleather and press the foam in place onto the glue. Make sure that the edges line up as evenly as possible.
   • You could also use fabric glue or jeweler's glue if you do not have a hot glue gun handy.
6. 6
   Attach the foam to your mouthpiece. The narrowed part of your headpiece needs to be hot glued just above the top part of your mask nose piece. The evenly wide section should be glued onto one end of the fabric-covered strap in the back. Make sure that the strap goes across the front, top, and back of your head in a straight line.
   • Glue the edges of the foam headpiece to the inside of your mouthpiece, hiding them from sight.

Part Three: Finishing Details

1. 1
   Place thin tubing alone the sides of your top headpiece. Cut two pieces of 1/2 inch (1.27-cm) tubing that match the measurement you took of the top of your head. These pieces should be the same length as the strip of fabric that covers the front, top, and back of your head.
   • Note that these pieces of tubing are a bit too long to use plastic bendy straws for. If you cannot find tubing or do not want to mess with it, you could either skip this step or use pipe cleaners covered in pleather in place of the tubing.
   • Hot glue these pieces of tubing along the edges of the top headpiece, one tube to each edge.
2. 2
   Glue small bolts near the headpiece tubing. Take small bolts and glue them in pairs along the top headpiece. Each bolt should be to the inside of the tubing along the edge of your headpiece.
   • You should have five to eight pairs of bolts, or 10 to 16 individual bolts, in total.
   • Space the pairs apart at even intervals.
   • If you do not have bolts, you can use belt studs or similar metallic objects, instead.
3. 3
   Spray paint your mask black. Bane's mouthpiece is an intimidating black. Use spray paint that is labeled to work on a variety of materials (metal, plastic, fabric) and spray the entire mask black.
   • Let dry for several hours in a warm spot with low humidity.
   • Since the headpiece is already covered in black pleather, strictly speaking, it does not need to be painted. If you want to use as little paint as possible, cover these areas with painter's tape as you spray the mask and remove the tape after the paint has dried.
4. 4
   Paint the mouth tubing silver, if desired. For a slightly more authentic look, you can use silver metallic paint and a paintbrush to paint the tubing silver. This is not strictly necessary but can add dimension to the final mask.
   • Make sure that the paint is labeled for use with plastic.
   • Let the paint dry.
5. 5
   Try the mask on. Your Bane mask should now be complete. Try it on and see how it looks.
   • If you need to make any adjustments, you should still be able to do so.

Things You'll Need

• Respirator mask or airsoft mask
• Screwdriver
• Sharp knife or saw
• Scissors or utility knife
• 1/2-inch (1.27-cm) diameter tubing
• Hot glue gun and glue sticks
• Thin, flexible foam
• Black pleather
• 2-inch (5-cm) elastic band (optional)
• 10 to 16 small bolts
• Black spray paint
• Silver craft paint
• Paintbrush